Treating The Root Cause: Dr. James Kilgour on Formulating for Hair Loss Prevention

Following his initial medical residency at the University of Oxford, James Kilgour, MD moved to the US to complete a dermatology residency and a precision medicine fellowship at Stanford University. In his clinical experience, Dr. Kilgour encountered patients experiencing hair loss during pivotal life stages—postpartum, perimenopause, menopause and GLP-1-use. Some were wary of existing pharmaceutical options and side effects.

Dr. Kilgour decided to don a lab coat for more than patient exams; he set out to build a new solution. The result: KilgourMD, a range of hair products that includes serums designed to target scalp aging at its source, addressing both oxidative stress and inflammation through ingredients like vitamin C and piroctone olamine.

Dr. Kilgour was the lead presenter in Happi’s “GLP-1 and Beauty & Personal Care” webinar in May. We checked in with him after to discuss in detail his formulation process, the science behind his signature KilgourMD Soothing Shield blend, what’s captured his attention in the science of haircare and plans for the future of growing brand.

Happi: You set out to build a better mouse trap, so to speak. Did you not see any options in the category or was there a huge gap? What moved you into becoming a product creator in addition to your role as a doctor? 

Dr. Kilgour: During my residency training and clinical practice, I kept seeing patients with the same problem—hair loss occurring during these major life milestones such as post-partum, peri and post menopause, and GLP-1 use. At the same time, my patients were hesitant to use existing pharmaceutical options for hair loss due to concerns about side effects, and their mechanisms of action felt reactive rather than preventative. I was inspired by my academic background in topical drug development to formulate a solution that would target the root cause of the hair loss: scalp ageing, while minimizing side effects.

Happi: Can you share a little bit about the development process—for example how did you found the core ingredients for the treatments and then how did you find the manufacturing partner to build it? 

Dr. Kilgour: Formulating the two serums took 12 months. Luckily, I had a head start from my post-doctoral fellowship at Stanford, where I was mentored by two brilliant academic dermatologists, Dr. Kavita Sarin and Dr. Jean Tang, both of whom are experts in topical drug development. I began the process with an exhaustive, systematic review of the scientific literature to identify key target botanicals and actives with the strongest mechanistic data for scalp ageing and hair loss, and then began formulating in the lab and conducting in vitro studies to prove the concept before moving to clinical testing.

Happi: Tell us more about the proprietary blend in The Prevention serum—“KilgourMD Soothing Shield.” How did you land on this combination?  Why is this blend in this formula important? 

Dr. Kilgour: What became clear from emerging research is that there are two key ageing forces that degrade the health of the scalp over time, leading to loss of normal follicular function. One is oxidative stress, which is the same common pathway that ages our facial skin and leads to wrinkles. We included high-potency vitamin C to address this pathway. The second ageing force is inflammation, which, uniquely in the scalp, is caused most commonly by dandruff. Adding piroctone olamine into the formula acts to rebalance the scalp microbiome and reduce this second pro-ageing pathway. 

HAPPI: In an addition to the efficacy of your formulations, can you share more about what was important to you regarding the finished product development—for example, aesthetics in the shampoo/conditioner for example? 

Dr. Kilgour: A product is only effective is people enjoy using them and will be consistent. Hair growth takes at least three months to see noticeable results, and that means there is a certain level of commitment and faith needed. We spend a great deal of time working on the form factor of our products, making sure the color, consistency, hair and scalp feel, and odor work well so that the products do not feel like a chore to use.

HAPPI: What are some areas of hair care science and research that you find of interest right now—and why? 

Dr. Kilgour: I’m very interested in lash growth at the moment – the market currently contains two types of products; ones containing prostaglandin analogues (think prescription Latisse and many of the cosmetic dupes), and prostaglandin-based serums containing myristoyl pentapeptide-17. The issue with the former is the side effect risk, which are numerous including iris and eyelid hyperpigmentation, and infraorbital fat hollowing. For the latter, the issue is efficacy, with the peptide-based serums having generally disappointing results. I’m interested in a solution that bridges the gap, using a more refined mechanistic approach to have better efficacy without unwanted effects.

HAPPI: This line is being sold online currently. Do you have plans for expansion to additional online sellers or brick and mortar? 

Dr. Kilgour: While DTC has always been our predominant focus given the relationship it gives us with our customers, we are having a lot of interest from multiple specialty retailers for a retail rollout. We’re currently considering who would be the best partner to move forward with, as we want to be intentional and make sure the audience is fully aligned. My preference is for a deep partnership and integration with a single launch retailer where our core customer (women aged 45-65) wants to see us.

HAPPI: Do you have plans for any additional products, and if so, what are they and when will they be available? 

Dr. Kilgour: Our next hero launch will be before the end of the year—stay tuned!